Say the word cheese and there’s only one man in New York who has us covered. Fairway Market’s Steven Jenkins knows the subject of Cheese, wine, and food better than anyone. In fact he’s like a walking encyclopedia on the subject. Ask Steven a question about Cheese and he has the answer. Ask him about Mozzarella? He will tell you: “It should be like eating a glass of milk.” Indeed it should. As a case in point and to challenge Steven, Ask a New Yorker. com did our own Mozzarella Fairway Market/ Harrods food Hall in London comparison and our findings concluded Fairway won hands down. Yes Steven’s Cheeses stink and that’ s a compliment. Fairway has the best Cheese selections in the world and Steven has tasted every one of them. Certainly, New York is lucky to have him as their taste buddy, and if the French could they would import this guy because they love him too. Interestingly, the French 9 a tough crowd when it comes to food) have bestowed award upon accolade upon this him.
The truth is Steven Jenkins isn’t joking when it comes to Cheese. He knows the subject. His unrivaled knowledge has made him a very big Cheese in the food industry, and in every corner of the globe. Steven’s reputation is smelt and felt all over. Both a pioneer and a trendsetter. It is not surprising that Steven’s talents have been recognized from Paris to Portland and from the Rhine to Rome. But while Steven Jenkins could be imported to any food Hall in the world, he proudly does it all for New York’s Fairway Market, and the City of New York which he loves.
Talking to Steven Jenkins is an adventure unto itself, and a trip to Europe. Who knew that when you say Cheese it’s not just a line for the camera but something with an amazing science and history attached to it. For example: Did you know cheese has been around for 10,000 years? Or that there are 1600 different types of Cheeses? Steven Jenkins does, and boy does he know his stuff. Indeed you can say that his nose has the smell of success. Cheese and food are subjects Steve cares passionately about, and he does the global legwork just so New Yorker’s can stay home and enjoy. Steven Jenkins is credited with having introduced countless cheeses and other foodstuffs to New Yorkers (and subsequently the rest of the United States). He also continues to generate remarkable publicity and public awareness for food artisans and artisanal foods. He has also made Americans food savvy and even popularized the use of the terms “artisan/artisanal” as well as “cheesemonger.” Truth is this man has been a great Ambassador for the American food industry and particularly New York. It’s well worth a visit to Fairway Market to see him in action. Ask him about his subject and he loves to educate and entertain. Even the French have fallen in love with him. Now that’s a tough crowd to please, especially when it comes to food.
The first American cheesemonger inducted into France’s ancient and elite Guilde des Fromagers, in 1976, he was recently elevated to “prud’homme”, the guild’s highest status. In 1980 he was welcomed into France’s super-honorary society, Taste-Fromage, once again, the first American. Jenkins’ book, Cheese Primer (Workman, 1996), decidedly a “chef-d’oeuvre”, is in its record-breaking eleventh printing. People clearly not only love to eat what he picks but read what he says. Cheese Primer won the James Beard Award, and is regarded as the most important and indispensable book in the world of cheese for both professionals and amateurs. Steven Jenkins has also written extensively for every major food and wine publication as well as columns for the major trade magazines and domestic and international culinary journals..
Recently named one of the 25 most important people in the history of the American specialty foods industry by Gourmet Retailer. Steven has been a guest lecturer at numerous venues here in the US and in Europe. People love to hear what he says and he is a regular guest on the award-winning NPR program “The Splendid Table” with Lynn Rossetto Kasper. Steven Jenkins’ many videos and interviews can be seen and heard at food-related websites such as Heritage Radio, Chow, Serious Eats, The Cook’s Companion and Epicurious. Jenkins was a board member of the American Cheese Society and is an active participant in the important work of the Oldways Preservation and Exchange Trust (Cambridge, Massachusetts).
So just how did Steven Jenkins get so cheese savvy?
“I needed to find a job” says Steven, who studied theater but hated auditions. “With food I loved everything about it and I knew more about food. No one had any respect for cheese we couldn’t get great cheese in New York and I went in search of it.” From there began a love story that today can be found at Fairway Market. Steven travels the world to bring the best Cheeses into Port Elizabeth and into the City, so New Yorker’s and Fairway customers can get the best of the best. Steven loves the job, and it shows. “Every day is like Christmas and showing off these foods is great.” Steven’s literally traveled millions of miles for his gastronomic education. “I started with France moved onto Italy, then I went to Spain and onto the UK” says the unassuming galloping gourmand. “I pioneered every cheese new Yorkers have tasted.” In fact Jenkins has such a respect for the European artisan it is truly amazing. What’s more he doesn’t just know Cheese but the whole of the dinner table. “There wasn’t a decent bottle of olive oil in the City” so Steven went in search of one literally learning from his own shoe leather. His efforts paid off and caught the attention of some of the world’s most discerning food experts. In a story that has a great Oh la la about it. In March of 2010 Steven Jenkins was notified by the French minister of food, agriculture and fisheries that he has been named Chevalier of the ‘Order of Agricultural Merit’. Once the French began with the accolades the Italians were quick to say “Si” to Steven as well. In May of 2010 Jenkins was presented the Distinguished Service Award by the Italian Trade Commission, and his name now resides in the very select Distinguished Service Hall of Fame.
Back home in America his work did not go unnoticed. In July of 2008, Jenkins was honored with a lifetime achievement award from the American Cheese Society. It’s not just Ask a New Yorker who wants to write about this amazing man but over the years he has been the talk of this town and the headlines say it all. “New York’s highest-profile grocer” (New York Magazine), “the enfant terrible of the fancy food business” (The New York Times), and “the eminence grise of American cheesemongers” (The New Yorker), as well as having been featured in New York Magazine’s “The 100 Smartest New Yorkers” issue, he has worked at New York’s Fairway Markets for most of his career.
Today his many responsibilities at Fairway Markets include the pioneering (exclusive) importation of traditional foods from over a hundred European companies. But this is a man who might know the food world but has no pretensions. Jenkins says: “I’m not interested in foodie crap or to say what goes with what. It’s all up to individual taste.” And when asked about what wine goes with what Steven is equally adamant. “It’s a matter of taste with everything. It’s what you like.” One thing you won’t do is find Steve wasting time eating in restaurants. “I don’t go to restaurants, it’s a waste of money and time. You spend 6 times the amount for a bottle of wine with the mark up, when you can eat and drink better at home.” Steven certainly practices what he preaches and delivers the goods to New Yorker’s.
At home Steven lives in with his wife Michelle and their children, Max and Lily and prefers to dine with his family rather than venture into an overpriced restaurant. He believes New Yorker’s should do the same, and return to the European way of gathering with the family around the table. Certainly Jenkins knows what’s great to eat and loves sharing his passion. Steven Jenkins is indeed a man of excellent taste buds!
